Safer Internet: Offline Data

Safer Internet: Offline Data

Introduction | Summary


Introduction

  • There are only 2 kinds of users:...
  • What happens to your information if:
  • your devices and/or backups are lost, stolen, destroyed or corrupted -- at home or while travelling?
  • you neglect to install security updates -- and your system is compromised?
  • you lose/forget your passwords?
  • you donate or sell your computer?
  • you become forgetful, incapacitated, or deceased?

Summary


Safer Internet: Offline: Passwords Intro

Safer Internet: Offline: Passwords Intro

Non-expert Online Practices
1. Use Antivirus Software
2. Use Strong Passwords
3. Change Passwords Frequently
4. Only Visit Websites They Know
5. Don't Share Personal Info
Expert Online Practices
1. Install Software Updates
2. Use Unique Passwords
3. Use 2-Factor Authentication
4. Use Strong Passwords
5. Use a Password Manager

Summary

  • Passwords are now covered in a separate 3-session OLLI course: P@s$w0rdz
  • As an introduction, each section below includes highlights copied from P@s$w0rdz --
    each Heading links to the corresponding detailed P@s$w0rdz section for the latest information.
  • A later section Browse: Protect Passwords originally covered advanced password issues;
    it now provides only an updated list of Reference articles about Passwords

Weak Passwords? Stronger Passwords

Generate Memorable / Complex Passwords

  • Three types of passwords:
  • 1. phone PIN/passcode -- memorable & typable; 8+ digits; optional: alphanumeric
  • 2. computer/tablet passcode; password manager; some online accounts
    -- memorable and/or typable; 4+ word phrases; optional: customize w/ digits, puncutation
  • 3. most online accounts -- complex & pastable: 20-64 complex character sequences
  • Possible random password generators:
  • Your imagination -- not so random, really!
  • Diceware: roll die 5 times to select a word from a list of 7776 (65) words in some language;
    repeat 4+ times to generate a random phrase; e.g., "correct horse battery staple"
    -- famous XKCD:cartoon
  • Diceware-like functionality in macOS and 1Password -- "Memorable"
  • mac pw assistantOS: e.g., macOS: System Preferences > Users & Groups > Password > Change Password > "key icon": Password Assistant : Numbers Only; Memorable; Random
  • mempina password manager, e.g., 1Password > Generate Password: PIN, Memorable, Random
  • Misc. web sites: quality varies; not so private if site logs trial passwords!

mac randTest Password Strength

  • Different web sites can rate the same password differently: Poor, Good, Excellent.
  • For more reliable, consistent result use one of these testers:
  • OS: e.g., macOS Password Assistant; only up to 31-characters
  • 1pw ollia password manager, e.g., 1Password, works for longer sequences
  • recommended online tester: zxcvbn
    -- zxcvbn also directly embedded in P@s$w0rdz:Testing
  • optional: disconnect network after loading page to prevent possible password logging (not necessary for zxcvbn).
  • below demo heading, enter password/passphrase into input field
  • goal for important accounts: entropy value: 75+ -- with crack time: centuries; explanation provided.

Store Passwords Securely

  • paper: ok for accounts if well-hidden? good for backup in Safety Deposit Box.
  • human memory: good for 2+ strong passwords -- for devices, password file/manager
  • browser autofill: avoid -- possible exception: if all Apple devices via iCloud?
  • "Single Sign-On" -- avoid entering Google, Facebook, Twitter credentials on 3rd party sites
  • computer file: fine if strongly encrypted, e.g., Excel doc via 7-Zip or Keka (AES-256); more manual step;s
  • Password Manager (PM): best. features: strong encryption (AES-256); sync/share between devices & family members;
    generate random passwords; autofill login credentials, organize/update passwords; credit cards; 2FA support; ...
    downsides: learning curve, possible cost
  • recommended PMs: 1Password, LastPass, Dashlane

Updating Passwords

  • Only change passwords if they're weak, reused or compromised -- or site insists on it.
  • Check if any of your accounts have been hacked ('pwned')
  • Plan an upgrade strategy for many passwords -- to avoid overload / procrastination.
  • Use password manager, e.g., 1Password "WatchTower", to proactively identify Reused; Weak; Compromised; Vulnerable passwords.

Security Questions / Secret Answers

  • "I don't have a bank account because...
  • Some sites use so-called 'secret answers' to questions as a pseudo-authentication factor besides a password.
  • However, an answer isn't secret if hackers can find it in public records, from breaches from other sites,
    or on social media sites -- don't post such personal details widely, or participate in 'fun' quizzes that reveal this info!
  • Instead, supply untrue, opposite, misspelled, foreign language, or unpredictable answers -- even random phrases.
  • If you're using a password manager, no need to remember these -- just store; then later, copy & paste

Recovery; User Names

  • Include email address and possibly phone # in account information, to facilitate account access and possible recovery , e.g., password reset.
  • For a primary email account, specify a secondary email address to receive notices about suspicious activity.
  • Most sites require an email address as a 'username';
    if so, provide a 'permanent' email address (rather than an ISP email address), or an email alias;
    if not, provide a unique username (not email) that marketers and hackers can't use to easily correlate your information.

Biometrics

  • You still need a strong passcode -- not only for initial setup and after updates / restarts,
    but also if you want to grant access to someone you trust or if you injure your finger, face...
  • A fingerprint or facescan is fairly reliable, and fairly secure (though subject to spoofing).
  • Biometrics can be a convenient shortcut to avoid entering device passcode too frequently, but use apprpriate timeouts.
  • Be extra cautious if using with important applications / sites, e.g., password manager
  • Legally you can be compelled to provide a fingerprint or facescan -- it's considered public;
    a password/passcode is considered private ("self-incrimination"), but courts or border crossing agents may try to compel you anyway.

2-Factor Authentication (2FA)

  • Although unique user names & random secret answers provide minor additional protection,
    for especially important accounts, e.g., financial, email, use a different second "authentication factor" (2FA)
    -- in addition to a strong password.
  • Generally, a good 2nd factor is a temporary code, provided via SMS (texting); issues: spoofing, service access
  • Best 2FA is a TOTP (Time-based One Time Passcode) provided via an "authenticator app" or physical token
  • Once set up, both the site and app generate -- in sync -- the same, new random code, which changes frequently.
  • Examples of authenticator apps: 1Password (built-in), Authy, Google Authenticator, Microsoft Authenticator

Safer Internet: Offline: Accounts

Safer Internet: Offline: Accounts

Summary | Account Password | Permissions | Firmware/SIM |
References: General | Android | Apple ID / iCloud |
iOS | macOS | Windows


Summary

  • [1] Set a strong account password / passcode:
    on your computer, tablet, phone to protect access:
  • to still logged-in apps, e.g., messaging, email, browser windows;
  • to files -- and encrypt also?
  • to contacts
  • to notifications, e.g., received (SMS/email) or generated (TOTP) account access codes (2FA).
  • Don't forget other devices (IoT): home security/control systems, smart speakers/TV, ...
  • [2] Setup separate accounts for each user to control access, e.g., non-admin, Parental Controls
  • [2] Use non-admin account for everyday access -- require admin password for software install & updates
  • [3] Set passwords for firmware and/or SIM
  • References

[1] Set Account Password

  • After setting a strong random password: 8+ digit PIN passcode for phone, 4+ word phrase for computers,
  • set a suitable timeout to make sure it's required when others might try to access:
  • longer: at home -- to minimize inconvenience;
  • shorter: in public or travelling;
  • immediate: when crossing border or leaving device unattended, e.g.,
  • macOS: (apple) > Lock Screen
  • There's no handy 'Lock Screen' button in the iOS Control Center;
    however, there is a workaround to display the Lock Screen and require a passcode -- maybe simpler to just shutdown device?
    in iOS 11, clicking power button quickly 5 times displayed Lock Screen-- now this sequence makes an Emergency Call
  • iOS: Settings > Accessibility > Touch > Assistive Touch: on -- enable Assistive Touch (handy if power button broken)
  • iOS: Settings > Touch ID & Passcode > iPhone Unlock: off -- disable Touch ID (so fingerprint can't be used on Lock Screen)
  • iOS: (assistive button) > Device > Lock Screen -- Lock Screen appears; passcode required
  • Limit number of login attempts? Auto-erase?
  • Add contact info maybe -- in case of loss (vs. Privacy) -- see Services: Location section
  • Avoid giving your password to to government entities who might access files, plant files or add spyware
  • -- or to tech support, esp. remote scammers; if you do, change it immediately afterwards, scan for malware, etc.
  •  macmacOS: System Preferences > Security & Privacy > Change Password
  • System Preferences > Users & Groups > Password > Change Password -- to set initial password, or change other accounts
  • System Preferences > Security & Privacy > Require password > (time)
  • Use same strong admin password for whole disk encryption, i.e., encrypt main storage disk/SSD (FileVault) and backup drive/partitions: incremental (TimeMachine), clone(Carbon Copy Cloner via FileVault) -- see Backup section
  •  iosiOS: Settings > Passcode > Turn Passcode On
  • iOS: Settings > Passcode > Change Passcode > Passcode Options: Custom Alphanumeric Code, Custom Numeric Code, 6-Digit Numeric Code
  • This code automatically encrypts your information (ditto for Android)
  • Use custom -- more than the default (4-6 digit); stronger, plus attacker won't even know length.
  • Although letters and symbols can be included, a much longer numeric PIN can be entered more easily on larger number-only keypad;
    it would still difficult to brute force, esp. if OS limits login attempts -- unless law enforcement has a bypass cracking device.
  • iOS: Settings > Passcode > Require Passcode > After x minutes/hours shorter when traveling?
  • iOS: Settings > Passcode & gt; Allow Access When Locked : Today View, Recent Notifications, Control Center, Siri, Home Control, Return Missed Calls
  • iOS: Settings > Passcode > Erase Data after 10 failed passcode attempts
  • iOS: Settings > Touch ID & Passcode fingerprint sensor on selected models, e.g., iPhone 6
  • Win: Settings > Accounts > Sign-in Options > Password > Add/Change
  • Enable whole disk encryption, i.e., BitLocker

[2] Setup separate accounts/permissions for each user

  • Admin account for installs/updates; 2nd admin backup account
  • Non-admin accounts for routine use to avoid accidental malware
  • Setup "Parental Controls" on shared computers?
  • When: now, or the next time you upgrade your OS or replace hardware, and migrate user info
  • macOS: System Preferences > Users & Groups
  • Win: Settings > Accounts

[3] Set Firmware password, SIM PIN

References

Android

Apple ID / iCloud

iOS

macOS

Windows


Safer Internet: Offline: Backups

Safer Internet: Offline: Backups

Quotes | Summary | Where? | Incremental | Complete | Offsite | What I Use | Other |
References: General | Android | Backblaze | Carbon Copy Cloner | Cloud | Death |
Dropbox | Future | Google | Hard Drive/SSD | iCloud | iOS | macOS |
Natural Disaster, esp. Cascadia Quake | OneDrive | Paper/Other | Photos |
Retrospect | SuperDuper | Thumb / USB Drive | TimeMachine | Windows


Quotes

Summary

  • "Data loss is when you no longer have access to your own data...
  • "Data theft is when someone else gets access to your data illicitly...
  • Backup frequency poll (2020) -- never: 19%; annual: 39%; monthly: 20%; 12%: weekly; daily: 10%; ~Backblaze; 6/18/2020
  • "3-2-1" backups: 3 copies of your data; 2 different, local methods (formats); 1 offsite
  • Disks & solid state drives (SSDs) -- and CDs, DVDs and thumb drives -- will eventually fail /corrupt
  • Recover from accidental deletions, theft, ransomware (Malware, Encryption), and incomplete system updates
  • 3Rs: Redundancy, Resiliency, Reliability
  • 1. Incremental: user files, settings -- to local or network external drive;
    often maintains some older file versions -- hourly/daily/weekly;
  • 2. Complete: user files & settings plus system and applications
    -- ideally an exact copy and bootable clone -- to local or network external drive -- weekly/monthly
  • 3. Offsite: cloud service -- ongoing (with internet connection), preferably automatically;
    partial: email, photos, contacts, notes, calendar, e.g., iCloud;
    selected files, folders (manually), e.g., iCloud, Dropbox, Google Drive, Microsoft OneDrive;
    passwords: synced between cloud & devices via password manager, e.g., 1Password;
    complete: cloud backup service such as Backblaze
  • Backups don't usually take long, e.g., < 30 minutes -- start before a coffee break or meal
  • World Backup Day March 31st (just before April Fool's)
  • International Verify Your Backups Day every Friday the 13th; TB
  • Check periodically that your backups actually occurred and that you can restore files!
  • When changing device settings, it's best to 'backup' the current settings, either via paper or screenshot, in case you change your mind.
  • References

Where to Backup?

  • Device or disk manufacturer may provide backup software, e.g., Time Machine, Retrospect
  • What is the total size (used + available) of your internal disk/SSD?
  • Option 1: Separate external drives, one for incremental, one for clone
    -- if you're concerned about the risk of a single drive failing or disappearing;
    some (newer) partitioned drives don't support bootable clones
  • Incremental (TimeMachine): size: 4x internal -- or more, if you'd like more versions and deleted files to be preserved
  • format: Disk Utility > OS Extended Journaled -- Encrypted (recommended); save recovery key!
  • you can enable encryption later: Time Machine Preferences > Encrypt Disk, which uses FileVault also
    -- however, enabling later is much s-l-o-w-e-r
  • Bootable clone(s) [Carbon Copy Cloner]: size: 1x internal -- or more, if you'd like multiple macOS versions, each in a separate partition
  • format: Disk Utility > OS Extended Journaled -- not Encrypted; CCC will convert to AFPS format (encrypt later)
  • before backing up [first time], System Preferences > Spotlight > Privacy: exclude backup drives
  • before cloning [each time], disable any automatic cloud-based backup,
    e.g., Backblaze Preferences > Settings > Schedule > Only When I Click Backup Now
  • after cloning [each time], renable any automatic cloud-based backup,
    e.g., Backblaze Preferences > Settings > Schedule > Continuously
  • to encrypt bootable clone backup, option-Restart; in Startup Manager, select backup disk/partition
  • after clone booted, System Preferences > Security & Privacy > FileVault: Turn On; save recovery key!
  • after clone encrypted, option-Restart; re-select internal disk/SSD
  • Option 2: [2] single local external disk partitioned to contain both incremental and clone backups -- convenient and economical; however, some cloned backups might not boot from newer partitioned drives?
  • e.g., 1x: 250G (clone); 3x: 750G (incremental; multiple versions/deleted files accessible)
  • Option 3: Cloud storage, e.g., iCloud, Backblaze. How secure is the cloud?
  • Very -- depending on how files are encrypted and stored, and who has access.
  • For brief explanation of different levels of security (via encryption) for Local and Cloud, see P@s$w0rdz:Storing:Encrypt
  • Option 4: [2] Shared local network drive (possibly with redundant drive arrays, e.g., RAID)

[1] Incremental Backup

  • Backup only what's changed, automatically: user files, multiple versions, settings, contacts, bookmarks
  • Frequency: hourly/daily/weekly -- esp. if many files added/changed; also, before any system updates
  • Alternatively, you could periodically backup selected files/folders manually to USB drive and/or cloud folder, e.g., DropBox, Box, Google Drive, Microsoft, OneDrive -- but, will you remember to do it?
  • macOS: Time Machine > Open Time Machine Preferences: select disk; Backup Now
  • (restore): Time Machine > Enter Time Machine [image]
  • Win: Settings > Update & Security > Backup > Backup Using File History
  • File History tool automatically saves multiple versions of a given file, so you can restore a file before it was changed or deleted

[1] Complete Backup

  • A complete, bootable clone contains everything, including applications and system files, and can help you recover from incomplete software updates
  • Frequency: weekly/monthly; also, before major system cleanup & updates -- and after successful updates
  • iOS (USB): Finder > Preferences > Sidebar > CDs, DVDs, and iOS Devices
  • macOS (to disk): Carbon Copy Cloner
  • Due to increased security in macOS, backup apps need to be granted permission for 'full disk access':
  • macOS: System Preferences > Security & Privacy > Privacy > Full Disk Access --
    apps provide directions, e.g., Carbon Copy Cloner, Backblaze; permission needed also for system cleanup tools like Titanium's Maintenance or Onyx
  • Win: Settings > System & Security > Set up backup
  • Backup and Restore creates a single backup of the latest version of your files on a schedule. It can also create a “system image,” which is a snapshot of your entire system -- operating system, programs, documents, and all -- which makes it easy to restore everything

[1] Offsite: Cloud and/or Other Physical Location

  • Store backup(s) somewhere other than your house/office in case your device and local backups are damaged, stolen, hacked, ...
  • USB/external disk/DVD at a remote site, e.g., bank Safety Deposit box, trusted friend's house
  • For desktop systems, a cloud provider can provide an automatic, complete backup with 'unlimited' storage for relatively small cost, e.g., ~$5/mo.
  • Frequency: ongoing
  • macOS (to cloud): Backblaze
  • Initial backup may take days, depending on number/size of files, and speed of internet connection
  • Restore selected files via download; since restoring everything from a remote backup could take awhile, service may ship a loaner drive, e.g., Backblaze
  • see References for other products, e.g., Retrospect; Carbonite: Windows ok, but Mac not, due to lack of private keys
  • Other cloud options are available for mobile devices and selected data and settings -- often free if default storage used, e.g., iCloud < 5GB
  • A password manager can store/sync encrypted passwords, e.g., 1Password on 1password.com, iCloud or Dropbox
  • Email backup may not be necessary if using IMAP, i.e., messages already stored on ISP's mail server and cached on each device
  • Share -- and backup -- documents & photos via services like Dropbox, Google Drive, iCloud, Microsoft OneDrive
  • Back up/sync system settings, bookmarks and certain types of documents and data via iCloud
  • iOS: Settings > (your acct) > iCloud: Photos, Mail, Contacts, Calendars, Reminders, Notes, Safari, News, Home, Game Center, Siri, Keychain, Find My iPad/iPhone, iCloud Backup
  • iOS: Settings > (your acct) > iCloud > Storage > Manage Storage > Backups: device; Documents&Data
  • iOS: Settings > (your acct) > Family Sharing -- setup
  • iOS: Settings > (your acct) > iCloud > Manage Storage > Share With Family -- share iCloud storage
  • What's shared: Apple media purchases, Apple Music family plans, iCloud storage plans, Photo album, Calendar, Reminders, Locations, Find My iPhone family view
  • Not shared: songs in iTunes Match (not purchased in the iTunes Store), in-app purchases, items hidden by a group member, some apps from the App Store (this is left up to each developer)
  • macOS: System Preferences > iCloud: Photos, Mail, Contacts, Calendars, Reminders, Safari, Notes, Keychain, Back to My Mac (File/Screen Sharing), Find My Mac
  • macOS: System Preferences > iCloud > Manage... (lower right)
  • macOS: icloud.com > Settings (home) > Storage
  • Is cloud storage safe?
  • Encryption depends on the strength & security of the encryption key -- in addition to the password you use to login to cloud provider (plus its security practices)
  • Encrypting in transit (via HTTPS:) is assumed; is file decrypted by provider before being re-encrypted?
  • If cloud provider has that key, files are vulnerable to hacking or government request -- only you should know / control separate 'private key' (which is not same as login password)
  • Conclusion: Extremely secure if file already encrypted 'end-to-end', e.g., password manager;
    or cloud service uses a separate (non-account) key which only you have, e.g., Backblaze
  • Ideally, 2-step authentication is available to protect account login -- section: Passwords

update backup iTunesWhat I Use

  • two separate external drives: for TimeMachine and for Carbon Copy Cloner
  • cloud services: iCloud, Backblaze
  • incremental [ext disk]: macOS: TimeMachine -- files; several times/week
  • incremental [cloud]: macOS, iOS: iCloud -- Safari, Settings, etc.; notes; ongoing; 1password.com
  • incremental [cloud]: macOS: Backblaze -- all files; ongoing (also external non-backup partitions);
    if you subscribe to Backblaze, use this referral link (or code: 00gxf7) to receive a free month; Steve receives a free month credit.
  • complete [ext disk]: macOS: Carbon Copy Cloner -- files, apps, system; monthly, esp. before macOS updates
  • complete (via macOS) iOS: files, settings, etc. (Manual) before iOS updates -- see screenshot on right {???}

Other

  • [1] Paper: important device & account passwords (esp. for password manager!) in SD box
  • [1] Save .pdf of various paper documents, e.g., manuals for devices & appliances from manufacturers sites
  • [1] While travelling, backup digital photos to local drive, other device or cloud
  • [2] Customize photo storage settings to optimize space, cost, sync time, esp. if you have many GB of photos & devices
  • [3] If you host a blog or website, make backups, e.g., WordPress.com > Dashboard > Tools > Export

References

Android

Backblaze

Carbon Copy Cloner (Mac)

Cloud

Death, Divorce

Dropbox

Future

Google

Hard Drive, SSD

iCloud (Apple)

iOS

macOS

Natural Disaster

OneDrive (Microsoft)

Paper, Other

Photos

Retrospect

SuperDuper (Mac)

Thumb / USB Drives

TimeMachine (Mac)

Windows


Safer Internet: Offline: Software Updates

Safer Internet: Offline: Software Updates

Quotes | Summary | When, What | OS | Apps | Add-ons |
Incremental Updates | Major Upgrades | Replace? |
References: General | Android | Apps | ChromeOS/Book |
Drivers, Firmware | iOS / iPadOS | macOS | Meltdown/Spectre |
Office Suites (and other apps) | Replace / Switch Devices | Windows


Quotes

Summary

  • "If it ain't broke, don't fix it"?
  • Even if you don't care about bug fixes or new features, privacy & security updates are very important.
  • It's a myth (procrastination excuse?) that newer versions are always larger, slower, buggier.
  • Take note of software upgrade/update notifications, e.g., popups, emails -- -- but don't interact directly with them.
  • It's better not to click on links/buttons in unexpected notifications, even if they seem from legitimate sources;
    browser popups about Flash are a notorious avenue for malware
  • Instead, check/update officially via app store, vendor, OS/app or settings.
  • Although most updates are generally reliable, it's a good idea to backup first anyway.
  • [1] Install Minor/Incremental Updates: System, Apps, Add-ons/Extensions -- within a few days
  • [2] Install Major Upgrades -- within a few weeks
  • [2] Consider replacing your device or browser -- if security updates are no longer offered; in the meanwhile, exercise extra caution when online; or run selected apps on a different more secure device.
  • [2] Don't forget other network(ed) devices, e.g., router, smart TV, IoT
  • [3] Run software and hardware diagnostics/repair utilities
  • References

When, What to Update: System, Apps, Add-ons

  • Backup!
  • If you minimize number of applications and add-ons, esp. if infrequently or not used (see Erasing section), there will be fewer items to update.
  • Each user will have different risk vs. benefit tradeoffs for what & when to update
  • Most tech-savvy user in family might do updates for everyone (whose accounts lack admin privileges)
  • Update sooner if the system or app security fixes are critical, i.e., browser, email, network, cloud
  • It's usually ok to wait a few days -- for a few weeks for major versions -- if you're travelling or extra busy, or to research incompatibilities.
  • Many bugs have already been detected and fixed during wider beta testing by developers (and daring users)
  • Any problem with a software update itself is usually remedied in a day or two -- plus, upgrade servers will be more responsive
  • Current/recent OS versions:
  • Usually, the latest version numbers/dates will be listed below -- and on Course Updates page:
  • The labels and color-coding suggest status/urgency for upgrading:
  • green: up to date
  • lighter green: Recent; incremental; upgrade soon
  • orange: Old; major; upgrade when convenient
  • red: Obsolete; upgrade asap, or replace -- if internet is used and security upgrades no longer avail

Operating System

  • system: e.g., Android, iOS, macOS (formerly "OS X"), Windows
  • for checking version / installing system update:
  • iOS: Settings > General > About : Version
  • iOS: Settings > General > Software Update
  • macOS: [apple] > About
  • macOS: System Preferences > Software Update
  • Win: Settings > System > About
  • Win: Settings > Update & Security > Windows Update
  • [2] Update software/firmware on other connected devices, e.g., router, smart TV
  • [3] Test/beta official OS versions -- only if you are a developer, bugged by a bug, can't live without a new shiny feature, or crave living on the 'bleeding edge'.

Apps

  • Individual apps: check for updates via app store, upon startup (app preference), or manually (via menu)
  • Ok to ignore updates for apps that you never use, e.g., built-in apps like GarageBand -- but why not remove if unneeded, or offload if easily re-downloaded?
  • Install system & application updates only from official store, from within apps, or reputable developers
  • Some apps offer option of automatically downloading and installing updates; it's up to you; I prefer to backup before installing most updates.
  • [2] Generally, don't download from 3rd party sites, e.g., CNet, Soft32, ZDNET, download.com, etc.
  • [3] Don't jailbreak your device with an unofficial OS, so that you can install nifty but questionable apps.
  • iOS: App Store > Updates
  • iOS: Settings > iTunes & App Store > Automatic Downloads > Music, Apps, Books & Audiobooks, Updates: ?
  • iOS: Settings > iTunes & App Store > Use Cellular Data: ?
  • macOS: App Store > Updates: apps installed from store
  • macOS: Adobe Reader > Help > Check For Updates
  • macOS: Backblaze > Check For Updates
  • macOS: Carbon Copy Cloner > Carbon Copy Cloner > Check For Updates
  • macOS: Firefox > Firefox > About Firefox
  • macOS: Google Chrome > Chrome > About Google Chrome
  • macOS: System Preferences > Java > Update
  • macOS: LibreOffice > Help > Check For Updates
  • macOS: Microsoft Excel/Word/Powerpoint > Help > Check For Updates
  • macOS: Skype > Skype > Check For Updates
  • macOS: Zoom > Check for Updates
  • Allow easier installation of free apps?
  • iOS: Settings > (your acct) > iTunes & App Store > Password Settings > Free Downloads > Require Password: off
  • [2] Save $ by purchasing apps only once for each family device via accounts usually sharing same payment method
  • iOS: Settings > (your acct) > Family Sharing
  • macOS: System Preferences > iCloud > Manage Family
  • [3] macOS: System Preferences > Security & Privacy > 'app was blocked from opening because it is not from an identified developer' > Open Anyway

Add-ons: Plugins, Extensions

  • add-ons customize/extend an app, esp. a browser
  • Once installed, most browsers check/update automatically, or via sytstem preference
  • Do not update browser extensions, e.g., Flash, or apps when prompted via a browser popup -- use app store, or app or extension's own 'Check for Updates' command
  • Look for install options -- often checked by default -- that might install unwanted extensions or adware, or change settings (home page, search engine); e.g., Oracle's Java installer
  • plugins: e.g., Adobe Flash; Oracle Java -- or consider uninstalling altogether
  • extensions: e.g., Adblock Plus, HTTPS Everywhere
  • macOS: Safari > Preferences > Extensions > Updates : Install Updates Automatically
  • macOS: System Preferences > Flash Player > Advanced > Updates

[1] Install Minor/Incremental Updates, e.g., #.1

  • Backup -- both incremental and clone -- before cleanup; again before actual installation;
    see When, What to Upgrade; Backup section
  • If you always keep your device up-to-date, it should be easier to migrate to future system & app releases
  • You can usually wait a day or two -- or even longer if there are no security fixes for your particular device
  • Update may contain bug fixes, and minimal new features
  • Allow enough time for backup, download and install -- probably not before a trip or big presentation; updates usually go smoothly, but allow a little more time in case you need to troubleshoot or restore a previous system version.
  • General update info in previous sections, specific directions for different OS in subsequent subsections -- and References

Android

iOS

  • [Refs:iOS]
  • iOS: Settings > General > Software Update
  • iOS: App Store > Updates
  • iOS users may want to use iTunes to update iOS: easy to backup first
  • for OTA (over the air) updates via WiFi or cellular
  • < iOS9: update can fail due to low device memory
  • ≥ iOS9: update can be slower; apps are removed/reinstalled if needed to create temporary space

macOS

  • [Refs:macOS]
  • Out-of-cycle Security or Supplemental Updates may also be available, with no change to system version #
  • macOS: [apple] > About > Software Update
  • macOS: App Store > Updates -- macOS and selected apps
  • macOS (10.14): System Preferences > Software Update
  • macOS: System Preferences > App Store: download/install, password

Windows

[2] Install Major OS Updates, e.g., #.0

  • Backup -- both incremental and clone -- before cleanup or running diagnostics;
    again before actual installation; see When, What to Upgrade; Backup section
  • Install incremental or other updates to current OS and apps -- including Safari, iTunes for macOS -- before installing major updates
  • Allow even more time for backup, download and install -- to anticipate and remedy incompatibilities -- and if things don't go smoothly, for troubleshooting or restoring previous system version
  • Usually released about once/year: more major fixes, new features and possible incompatibilities
  • iOS: you should upgrade 'as soon as possible'; usually less complex than desktop upgrades; security fixes sometimes available for previous iOS version
  • macOS: incremental security fixes are still provided for previous system and browser for 1-2 years, so if there are really major changes, e.g., app incompatibility, user interface makeovers, missing features, performance issues, you could delay your upgrade -- though not indefinitely
  • Generally, you could wait a week or two for ".1" version to be released to avoid major bugs, especially if there are no critical security fixes and there are significant changes, e.g., file system
  • If there are multiple devices in a family, upgrade one first to test the process & outcome before upgrading others.
  • When you are ready to upgrade:
  • Read articles here about latest version, e.g., Android, iOS, macOS, Windows, or buy Take Control e-books to find out more about what's changed, compatibility/adequacy of your hardware (to run new os) and of apps (with new os), cleanup & backup steps, new features that you might actually like to have (or old features that might be removed that you can’t live without), installation advice
  • Remove unused applications and browser add-ons -- see Erasing section
  • Check if new OS version is incompatible with any important applications you have, e.g., upgrade info, release notes, vendor sites
  • Apple: macOS versions, compatibility; iOS, iPadOS updates
  • macOS: (apple) > About This Mac > System Report > Software > Applications: 64-bit(Intel) -- some 32-bit apps may still continue to work under High Sierra.
  • iOS10: Settings > About > Applications: 'these apps may slow down your iPad and will not work with iOS 11 if they are not updated'
  • For incompatible apps, consider upgrading version or finding a (free) alternative.
  • For example, instead of Microsoft Office 2011, which may not work with macOS 10.13 (High Sierra): HS 32-bit app incompatibility; plus, Microsoft has stopped providing support and security patches
  • offline apps: Microsoft Office 2016 -- $$; Steve's spouse upgraded to this
  • macOS/iOS iWork suite: Pages, Numbers, Keynote -- free; Steve switched to these
  • Open Office, LibreOffice, NeoOffice -- free
  • SoftMaker: Free Office (free); Softmaker Office: Std ($20+) / Pro; comparison
  • cloud-based storage & office suite (via browser): Microsoft: OneDrive: Word, Excel, PowerPoint Online -- free;
    Microsoft 365 -- subscription; includes apps (And,iOS,Mac,Win), 1Tb OneDrive cloud storage, 60 Skype minutes/mo.
  • Google Drive: Docs, Sheets, Slides -- free
  • Apple's iCloud: iWork (Pages, Numbers, Keynote) -- free
  • [2] Check disk permissions, repair (less necessary recently)
  • macOS (< 10.10): Disk Utility > Repair Permissions -- or run Maintenance (or Onyx) utility
  • [3] Restart from Recovery partition; check main disk; repair (if necessary)
  • macOS: restart w/ cmd-R > OS X Utilities > Disk Utility > Repair Disk
  • [3] Check hardware, e.g., memory
  • macOS: restart w/ D key; diagnostic runs automatically

[2] Replace Device?

  • Strongly consider replacing your device if security/privacy problems are no longer patched in your OS version -- and you can't upgrade, e.g.,
  • if your computer OS is more than 1-2 major versions behind -- see macOS, Win
  • usually if your tablet/phone OS is 1 or more major versions behind -- see Android, iOS
  • Your device doesn't support a newer OS -- or needs extra memory that you cannot (or do not want to) add
  • Apps you rely on are no longer provided/supported on your old OS (e.g., 32-bit when 64-bit will be required) -- and no updates are available
  • In the meanwhile, use an actively maintained browser, e.g., Firefox, Chrome -- rather than built-in browser, i.e., macOS Safari, Windows IE; and consider using the device only for casual (non-encrypted) browsing
  • Do you need just browsing, email, basic document creation/editing, and simple photo manipulation? If so, you might consider a tablet (iPad) or Chromebook -- less expensive, and much simpler to maintain/update than a full-blown desktop or laptop computer with macOS, Windows or Linux.
  • When purchasing a new device, especially a subsidized or less expensive one, request that vendor remove pre-installed bloatware, crapware, adware
  • If you're switching between different OS (versions or vendors), check if migration tools are available for contacts, bookmarks, settings, photos, accounts, etc.
  • When donating / discarding old device -- see Erasing section

References

Android

Apps

ChromeOS/Book

Drivers, Firmware

iOS / iPadOS

macOS

Meltdown / Spectre / ZombieLoad (hardware CPU flaws)

Office Suites (Microsoft & others)

Replace, Switch

Windows


Safer Internet: Offline: Encryption

Safer Internet: Offline: Encryption

Quotes | Summary | Intro | Device | Cloud | Notes | Indiv. Files |
References: General | Android | FBI (vs. Apple) | Government; Backdoor |
iOS | macOS | Quantum | Windows


Quotes

Summary

Encryption: Intro

  • We'll cover various kinds of encrypted internet connections later under Internet Connection: Wi-Fi, VPN and Web Browsing: HTTPS, shopping, Email, Talk and Chat
  • With today's faster processors, there's no perceptible delay for encryption/decryption.
  • For strong encryption, look for "AES-128" or "AES-256" (Advanced Encryption Standard) -- and create a strong password!
  • Avoid weak encryption, i.e., weak password (even with AES-128,-256), or older .zip format; standard .pdf or Office file
  • Backup any encryption or recovery key somewhere secure, e.g., password manager, SD box
  • If you also save recovery key in cloud (iCloud, Microsoft), you could conveniently access it, but so could government (legally or illegally) or hackers
  • Encryption becomes more vulnerable over time with faster processing, better algorithms, uncovered backdoors, more invasive laws / exceptions, quantum computers.
  • As a last resort, if you must share sensitive info, e.g., key, credit card, password, and end-to-end encryption is not available (email is typically decrypted at server, or your recipient may not be as careful as you are), communicate the information in fragments, e.g., separate emails, or use an alternate channel, e.g., text or phone

[1] Encrypt Entire Device / Disk -- and Backups

  • It's simpler to just encrypt entire drive rather than selected files.
  • iOS9+: automatic -- assuming strong (> 6 digit) passcode; also for recent Android
  • macOS: System Preferences > Security & Privacy > FileVault;
    i.e., FileVault 2; not recommended: "Legacy" FileVault (version 1) -- see Mac: FileVault references
  • You'll have to re-enter password after Logout / Shutdown, or sleep timeout; if you have a very strong macOS account password, you could encrypt using that same password and have it saved in KeyChain for convenience
  • Encrypt backup (incremental & clone) partitions/drives, e.g.,
  • macOS: Time Machine > Open Time Machine Preferences > (partition/disk) > Encrypt backups -- note much faster to encrypt during original partition/erase, rather than later
  • macOS: Carbon Copy Cloner: boot backup system, enable File Vault -- see Mac: Carbon Copy Cloner, FileVault references

[1] Encrypt Cloud Files & Backups

  • See Backups for earlier discussion of cloud storage
  • Files are normally encrypted in transit -- from your device to the cloud server
  • Many cloud services then encrypt the files based on their key and/or your account password;
    the files are accessible not only to you, but also to the provider, and by subpoena, to the government;
    also, if file/folder URL is shared or discovered, anyone could access file
  • More secure cloud services, e.g., BackBlaze, support use of a private key known only to you (different from your password).
  • The cloud service cannot decrypt files without this key, even under government demand -- more secure and preferable.

[2] Encrypt Notes

  • If you have a strong device password and full device encryption, this may be unnecessary
  • iOS: Notes > (share icon) > Lock Note
  • macOS: Keychain Access > Secure Notes

[3] Encrypt Individual Files / Folders

  • For individual files / folders, use "zip" utility w/ strong encryption, e.g., 7-Zip (Win, Linux) or Keka (macOS ), or recent WinZip -- not older original zip format
  • 'Password protection' provided by some apps, e.g., Word, .pdf, may be weak
  • If you want to encrypt more than a few files, and don't want to encrypt entire disk (or have an older Mac system), you can create a 'Disk Image' (embedded, compressed volume)
  • macOS: Disk Utility > File > New > Blank Image > encryption, image format: sparse bundle

References

Android

FBI (vs. Apple)

Government; Backdoor

iOS

macOS

[2] Quantum; Future

Windows


Safer Internet: Offline: Erasing Your Device

Safer Internet: Offline: Erasing Your Device

Summary | Apps | Device | Files | Redacting |
References: General | Android | iOS | macOS | Photos |
Recycling/Reselling | Redacting | Windows


Summary

[2] Erasing Apps -- and associated settings, and maybe data

  • Removing an unused app can free up storage, and reduce software update nags
  • To find out how much storage is used on your device: (esp. for apps, movies, videos, podcasts, music, photos, iOS backups)
  • iOS10: Settings > General > Storage&Cloud Usage > Storage > Manage Storage
  • iOS: Settings > General > iPad/iPhone Storage: Offload Unused Apps; iCloud Photo Library; individual apps
  • iOS: Settings > iTunes & App Store: Offload Unused Apps
  • macOS: [apple] > About This Mac > Storage > Manage
  • To remove not only an app, but also its settings, storage caches, etc.:
  • iOS: press down on app icon to enter move / delete ('jiggly') mode
  • tap "x" in upper left corner
  • popup: "Deleting (app) will also delete all of its data"
  • (press Home button to exit 'jiggly' mode)
  • To immediately delete related iCloud data:
  • iOS10: Settings > iCloud > Manage Storage > (device) > disable old app
  • iOS: Settings > (your acct) iCloud > Manage Storage > (app) > Delete Documents & Data
  • macOS: just dragging an app (from Applications folder) to Trash does not remove extra preference/library files
  • Use app's uninstaller (if one is provided) or an app removal utility, e.g., App Cleaner
  • [2] macOS: 3rd party utilities can find duplicate and large files, e.g., Disk Cleanup Pro (free; in the Mac App Store)
    "Disk Cleanup Pro automatically cleans up the big offenders, Caches and Logs, plus it allows you to scan for duplicate files and large files. You can set the threshold for file size (e.g. bigger than 50 MB) in preferences, and can set separate thresholds for different types of files (Movies, Photos, Text, etc.). It tells you broadly what type of file it is dealing with (Photos, Music, Documents, etc.); fileinfo.com can help you identify the kind of file for a file extension you don't recognize." ~Peter DeGroot, AshMUG
  • [3] macOS: (select files/folders) > File (ctrl-click) > Compress -- to reduce size of files you want to keep, but access infrequently; rename .zip if desired; delete originals when done
  • [3] macOS: Monolingual removes unused languages (and processor architectures) from System/Apps , e.g., just keep English yields ~2Gb
  • [3] macOS: (HD/SSD) : "Previous System" folder (if present: ~1-2Gb) can be deleted, but it can be very difficult/tricky to actually Empty Trash

[2] Securely Erasing Device / Disk

  • Securely erase drive before donating, discarding, recycling, selling or transferring your device; to be nice, re-install OS
  • This assumes that you've already backed up anything you care about, and migrated files/settings to any new device.
  • iOS: Settings > General > Reset > Erase All Content and Settings
  • Trigger auto-erase if lost or stolen?
  • iOS: Settings > Passcode > (passcode) > Erase Data -- after 10 failed passcode attempts
  • iOS: Settings > (your acct) > iCloud > (device) > Find My iPhone/iPad -- allows you to erase remotely
  • [3] macOS: erase disk and install OS
  • Boot from Recovery Partition (option-R during Restart); or your bootable clone; for older macOS, boot from DVD or USB
  • Utilities: Disk Utility > (select drive) > Erase -- generally use Format: Mac OS Extended (Journaled) (for now, don't use High Sierra's APFS); for older macOS, and non-SSD, use option to Erase Free Space: 3 (or more times), if available
  • Utilities: Reinstall macOS/OS X

[3] Securely Erasing Files

  • Even if you empty Trash / Recycle Bin, various utilities might be able to recover file content -- unless it's encrypted.
  • macOS: (≥ 10.10) use FileVault: erased file sectors are still encrypted -- thus unreadable; see Encryption section
  • macOS (< 10.10): Finder > Secure Empty Trash

[3] Redacting Files

  • Some source files (e.g., .doc, .pdf, .jpg) can retain layers / versions of info, i.e., metadata, or track changes;
    it might be recoverable via copy/paste or tools; just deleting it or overlaying an annotation may not be enough!
  • So, omit sensitive info from files in the first place: content as well as metadata such as Author, Organization
  • or, save edited document or selected screen area as an image
  • or, copy/paste selected (non-sensitive) info into a simpler format, i.e., one that removes any hidden info -- or use redaction tools
  • Remove photo metadata; e.g., phone location via iOS: Photo Investigator
  • Redact a .pdf or source document to remove sensitive info -- using proper tools, i.e., Adobe Acrobat Pro; otherwise, simple annotations / changes can be selected, copied, revealed

References

Android

iOS

macOS

Photos

Recycling / Reselling

Redacting

Windows